Sweet As, Out In The Wop Wops

Seeking the Old 'Ghan

Week three on the road placed us into the heart of South Australia. From ancient mountains in the Flinders into the former oceans and barren soils of the Lake Eyre (Lake "Air") region. My main objective to run the southern third of the Oodnadatta track, reputed to be the most intresting of the outback tracks thanks to a bit of history and the ocasional thing to stop and look at. Look at what? Well The Old 'Ghan route, once a Trainline which earned it's name from the imported camel wranglers from Afghanistan. Of course before that there were the explorers Stuart and Eyre. And of course all they were doing was following old Aboriginal trade routes.

Rough route: Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna, Leigh Creek, Marree, William Creek, Coober Pedy.

Leaving the Flinders ranges and swooping down onto the flats as I moved north was the top of the rollercoaster. And it's about all you can do in this situation to repeat "You're in Australia. You're in F@#$%^G Australia." to your self inside your helmet. You say it subtly though almost as a wispered thought because it may not be true and wouldn't that be dissapointing. And a lot of the places I've been over the last couple of weeks are Aussie, yes, but they're coastal cosmopolitan, and first world, and I'm used to the accent so in a way it's no big deal. Things are getting very big now however. Even when you know it's a big country, when you're used to hours in the saddle and a horizon that seem endless, like driving West Texas, you realize it can only get bigger and it certainly does. Australia will never dissapoint those looking for more, I can say that and I've only covered 3000 miles of it.

Well, The Oodnadatta as Chris Scott, author of the Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, describes all the major tracks, is a large 'Dirtabhan' and that's certainly true. The road is in incredible shape for where it is. Hard pack dirt, well grated with very little corrugation. Good traction and it's easy to see up ahead when that changes and you can adjust accordingly. For the most part I was curising right along at 60 mph 90 to 100 kph. Now if things got wet that would all change, it would be come impassable, and you can see the hardened but smoothed over ruts of the last time it rained, but they're rarely deep and don't really threaten to knock you off line.

It's beautiful country. The grandness is it's scale and the transitions of colors and textures of the earth that gradually change as the miles roll beneath you in their tens and twenties are almost meditative at hwy speed. It pays to stop and while away a few quite moments in the wind while you putter about an old trestle or siding building.

Now as interesting as historic, flat, barren, moonscape is it's all the better when you recieve a hero's welcome in camp each night. For the three days between Leigh Creek and William Creek and the two nights spent at Coober Pedy I was adopted by a six couples, not so grey nomads. Each night I was fed, given grog, and even placed in a couple of arragned marriges. I think the first engagment party will be in October. It was a wonderful experiance, to be taken in with such hospitality and shown such generosity. So thanks to all of you.....Susie & Rodger, Hellen & Greig, Hellen & David, Mark & April, Colleen & Darren, Con and Maria... it was a wonderfull pick me up that I really needed after being on my own several weeks. I think my mom Carolyn is even more thankful.

posted by Dusty Calfee @ 11:25 PM